Distance Covered: 19.1 miles
Time: 7 hours 20 minutes
I started this Camino much the same way I started from St. Jean Pied de Port five years ago — alone and in the fog.
Though this time it wasn't because I was several hours behind the other pilgrims after a late start, but because I seem to be one of few pilgrims traveling the Camino Portugues this time of year. In my 19 miles of trekking today, I saw not one other peregrino. And I am the only one staying in the hostel tonight in Alvaiazere. Even the host has only stopped by once or twice to throw a log on the fire, which I am now huddled beside under my sleeping bag, next to a box of cinnamon cookies and the bones of the half a chicken I just ate. Gotta say, it's not bad. Strange, though, to not be around other pilgrims, after the hoards I would run into every day in Spain. It foretells of an introspective and interesting, but lonely, journey ahead.
Today I walked through eucalyptus forests, small quiet towns, and along a few narrow highways. I knew I was the first to leave Tomar this morning because the spider webs along the trail were thick enough that I had to get out one of my walking poles and use it as a web remover. I think I walked for 5 miles waving a stick in front of my face and talking to myself. Thank god I was the only one around.
Not only was I the only one on the trail, I didn't see another human at all for several hours. Windows shuttered and houses quiet, it seemed this stretch of southern Portugal was inhabited almost entirely by dogs, clearly involved in some sort of neighborhood watch network. I think I caused a chain reaction of barks for most of the morning, spanning several miles. You're welcome Sunday morning countryside.
I don't know what's happening here below, but clearly he wanted his picture taken. He never broke that pose, or eye contact. I approached, stopped, took a picture, walked away...and he stayed like that.
I was more prepared for this Camino — more appropriate shoes, in better shape, packed more snacks, enough water. But in the end, the first day was still a little bit of a grind, and I'm looking forward to when I'm more used to this much walking. By then I'll be done, but hey. I'll feel like I've accomplished something other than going out to eat 40 times in a different country while trying to speak to as few people as possible. Which, let's face it, is all I'd be doing if I wasn't walking.
And believe me I'm much better at the walking than the food getting. I stared at a woman behind a counter this evening, not able to read anything on the menu, and not seeing any pictures, or any actual food I could point at. Finally, after I'd made a series of apologetic faces, she said, "Chicken?" And I said, "Si."
Nailed it.
So now I've eaten my chicken, and have been joined in the hostel by its one other guest, a Brazilian soccer player who said several things to me when he came in the door. I wonder what they were. And I wonder if they have anything to do with the reason he just locked himself in his room. I know because the keys are these really old school looking things, which control lock mechanisms that make the sound of bank vault when closing.
It really is criminal that I didn't pick up a little bit more Portugues before coming over here. Instead I've been occasionally brushing up on my Russian at home. Which has only resulted in me desperately answering people in a combination of Russian and English when I can't remember whatever Portugues word I'd been practicing in my head. This has been I think even more prohibitive for communication than if I just stopped trying entirely and used English.
Another long trek awaits for tomorrow. I'd shorten them up but I'm determined to try finish in the time I have on foot. If I have to bail and take a bus I will, but let's hope it doesn't come to that. I promised Carlos that I was going to Santiago, for which he gave me a special patch that I can only glue into my credencial when I get there. It will be added to the other three stamps he gave me, each one unique and carefully applied. Like the metallic wax you see him melting here:
I almost forgot. Regarding Tom, the mysterious character in my English Portugues translator app, here are the clues I got today. You'll remember yesterday's clues included some jail time, the CIA, and something being the matter with Tom.
Good morning, said Tom with a smile. (Immedately think, what's Tom hiding?)
You haven't seen Tom this morning have you? (Maybe he spent the night in jail again.)
The restaurant is located on the riverbed. (???)
How far did Tom get? (Probably about as far as the riverbed.)
How much do you like Tom? I'd forgotten how much I like Tom. (I bet she didn't forget.)
I think we just discovered why I don't know any Portugues. I think probably this isn't what the app is for. I like my way better though. I got the chicken didn't I?
Until tomorrow.
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